Notes for Visitors
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Organised TripsWe try to manage our enterprise in Castara on the basis of sustainable tourism. For instance, a number of local families now make a living through the services they offer to our clients and by extension, to others staying in the village. We have supported these families to establish their businesses, but have no ownership in them nor share in their profits, and we cannot be held responsible for any aspect of their service. In many ways local people are still learning how best to offer their service and what to charge. Sometimes they ask too much, and sometimes too little. We recommend therefore that you make it your business to get clear in advance what is being offered and what the cost is. There are many possibilities to choose from:
Bird watching trips & rainforest walksIf you want a trained professional for tours, bird watching or rainforest walks then talk to David at King David Tours. His website is very informative and can be visited at www.kingdavidtobago.com, or ask Porridge to ask him to call by. We do not recommend local untrained people who offer rainforest tours as they do not have in depth knowledge. A good many of our guests have now been out with David on his birding trips or rainforest walks and he has received lots of favourable comment in our Visitors’ Books. He offers 5 different trails depending on whether your main interest is birds, orchids, trees or a mixture. His trail that starts at the back of Englishman’s Bay is excellent and offers options on how deep you go into the rainforest and whether you want easy walking or something more rugged. His walks last several hours depending on your interest and energy so although he calls it a half day, he is quite happy if this extends to five hours or so. Talk things over with him in advance of your trip and he will put it all together. He calls by at a pre-agreed time to collect you and he drives you to the starting point and returns you back to Castara Retreats later in the day. David has offered a special price for clients at Castara Retreats and these are as follows: 1 person - $240TT or £24 So, if you form a group of people staying at Castara Retreats he offers a very attractive price. David also has a colleague who works with him and this person may lead your trip. However, if you are particularly keen on bird watching then we recommend that you ask David to lead your trip. We can wholeheartedly recommend Newton George, if you are seriously interested in birds. He is recognised as the top professional bird guide and has many years’ experience. There is an article on him on MyTobago and he has a website at www.tka.co.uk/birds/. To be sure of securing his services, it would be a good idea to email in advance (ngeorge@tstt.net.tt). He charges $ 60 US per person per day if he collects from Castara Retreats, and $40 US per person if he meets guests up at Gilpin Trace which is a rainforest trail on the road between Bloody Bay and Roxborough. If there are more than two in your party, he will probably negotiate his price. Spending a day with him in the summer of 2004 was one of the most memorable days of the entire trip for us. Another lovely outing is from Cuffie River Nature Retreat, using the services of Desmond, their resident guide. He charges $150 tt per person for an extremely informative bird and wild life walk, starting from Cuffie River itself. You may wish to combine it with lunch at the resort- Regina is a wonderful cook. Island tours with Jeanell and PorridgeTobago is beautiful, and there is much to see beyond Castara. A day out with Jeanell or Porridge is a great way to see the island. They know most of the places of interest, how to get there, where to stop for a drink or for lunch. The day is designed to suit you and typically begins at 09.00, to be back in Castara by 16.00. Travel is in an air conditioned car or jeep for two or three people, or in the minibus for larger groups. The itinerary below describes various options and these can be mixed and matched to suit your interest. Talk with Jeanell and Porridge to agree what suits you best, as there is a good deal of flexibility regarding your day out.
Circular tour of the North end of Tobago (6 plus hours) It is now possible to do a circular drive, much of it through rain forest, and following the coastline. Drive up the coast, past Englishman’s Bay and through the rain forest to the Atlantic coast. Then head up the coast to Speyside and stop for lunch. Continue across to Charlotteville on the Caribbean coast. Wander round the village and then take a 20 minute walk (steep) to Pirate’s Bay for a swim and snorkel. Alternatively, go by boat (5 mins) to Pirate’s Bay. Afterwards, drive South West down the coast following the new and incredibly scenic road down past Bloody Bay and back to Castara. Little Tobago: boat trip and snorkelling (6 plus hours) Drive up the coast, past Englishman’s Bay and then across the spine of the rainforest to the Atlantic coast. Meander up the dramatic coastline to Speyside and stop for lunch. From the Blue Waters Inn take a glass-bottomed boat across to the nature reserve island of Little Tobago for a nature tour, followed by a snorkelling trip on your way back to the mainland. The boat trip is approximately $150 tt per person. Argyle Falls: rainforest walk (3-4 hours) The Falls are a one hour drive, heading up the coast past Englishman’s Bay, and then across the rainforest to the Atlantic Coast. They are a series of waterfalls and pools on several levels, surrounded by rainforest. There are usually visitors swimming in the lower pools, but the higher pools are little visited, probably due to the steep ascending path that needs to be negotiated. However, at the top, the reward is a series of tiny but powerful natural spa pools that are wonderful to sit in and contemplate the treetops. Argyle Falls are not recommended in heavy rainfall. There is an entrance fee ($30tt with guide), so advice is available regarding conditions. Richmond House (2-3 hours) Richmond House is an old plantation house dating from 1766, with gardens and ten rooms. It is the only remaining such house on the island, the other having been destroyed by Hurricane Flora in 1965. Located just south of Argyle Falls, a trip here can be combined with a visit to the Falls. Tours cost $20 tt. Arnos Vale: beach and snorkelling (3-4 hours) Head inland and then down the coast in a south westerly direction, through villages and a very rural landscape, to Arnos Vale, , a small beautiful beach adjoining the Arnos Vale Hotel. The hotel has beautiful gardens and grounds to wander through, and serves drinks or lunch to non-residents. The beach is usually quiet and is set within a small bay that offers excellent snorkelling in calm weather. This journey can easily be joined to the Pigeon Point trip below. Pigeon Point and Store Bay (3-4 hours) Down toward the airport is the famous beach of Pigeon Point: the only beach on Tobago that you have to pay an entrance fee, but worth the trip for the turquoise shallow sea and the white sand beach; it can nearly always be counted on to be calm, and is a great place for young kids who are still diffident about the open sea. It is, however, quite commercial with bars, cafes and gift shops. A short distance away is Store Bay, made famous by Bob Marley: a great place to buy presents and souvenirs to take home, and to sample a take away roti from one of the many places selling them. Shopping with Porridge Now that you have arrived, you may be kicking yourself about a few essential things you didn’t bring with you or pick up from Pennysavers on your way up from the airport. Also, you have decided against car hire and are wondering how to get your hands on whatever it is that you need. The solution is to ask Porridge to take you to Scarborough. It’s more fun with him, and he knows where to go, and he handles all the stress of parking. He even hangs around until you’re ready to come home. He charges a modest $150 tt per person per trip. Sunday School For those of you that don’t know, Sunday School is a night out limin’ and dancing at Tobago’s famous hot spot, which is more or less the whole village of Buccoo given over to Sunday night clubbing. Things start warming up with pan music and old fashioned waltzing, but it’s fun to watch as the local partners sure do have style. Later in the evening (post 11 pm, and maybe even later) there are several music/clubbing venues, which are very modestly priced. The streets are streaming with friendly people (local and visitors) and there are plenty of places to eat and drink. Porridge knows how it all works and he usually has good intuition on what you are looking for. He steers you through it all with skill and humour, and usually you will find him leading the way onto the dance floor. However, do take a little care to think through if this is the right place for you, especially if you have teenagers, or younger children. Some people (including Steve) have got bored waiting for the more ‘club’ music and atmosphere to get going; others (like Sue) really enjoy the pan music. Talk with Porridge about who is going and the projected time of return, since some are ready to leave by midnight while others would prefer to stay till the small hours. Porridge drives you there, leaving between 7 and 8 pm, and brings you home. Sometimes it’s just a couple, more often it’s 6, 8 or 10 of you in his minibus. He charges $150 tt per person to take you there and back. Porridge is very good in creating a fun atmosphere on these trips and people often offer him a drink. His policy is to only accept a carib when he has arranged a alternative driver for the evening. Self managed tripsThere are many dive centres and again you are spoiled for choice. We are not experts in this area and recommend that you visit www.myTobago.info which has a very comprehensive guide on diving and dive centres. You can snorkel from the Little Bay right from the shore. There are many sorts of coral and fish to be spotted. Our favourites are the families of squid that shelter near the rocks and the sting rays which never cease to inspire awe, but every time you go out you will see something for the first time. We have seen little turtles on several occasions and an octopus once. During the summer of 2004, one of our younger guests, Rob, compiled a comprehensive list of fish he had seen during his three weeks stay - it can be found in Osprey's Visitors’ Book. Thank you, Rob! The walk to the waterfall behind Castara does not need a guide and is magical. Follow your nose up the stream that you cross into the village. Cross the playing field and meander alongside the stream into the forest for about 10/15 minutes. Englishman’s Bay is only about 4 kilometres up the coast. It is wonderfully scenic and clean and unspoiled. It is a bit more popular nowadays with maybe 20+ people some days on the beach. There is also a craft shop and a small café that serves a good lunch. The drive across the spine of rainforest to Roxburgh and on to Charlotteville is easy and takes about an hour or so. Stop for a freshly made fruit juice at the roadside stalls just before Roxburgh. Pirate’s Bay is a half hour walk beyond Charlotteville and incredibly romantic. Argyle Falls is worth a trip. We avoided it for 12 years as it involves local guides and negotiations re fees. But when we finally visited it was wonderful. Five levels of falls and pools deep in the rainforest. Make a half day of it, climb to the top and spend a couple of hours sitting in natural rock spa pools overlooking the tree canopy. Sunbathe and re-enter the pools and let the water flow massage your back. Tell your guide to relax, go away or whatever. Or better still, ask someone local from Castara to go with you and act as your guide. |
©2004 Castara Retreats